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In creating jewelry, gemstones, coins, or other precious items
are often used, and they are typically set into precious
metals. Alloys of nearly every metal known have been
encountered in jewelry -- bronze, for example, was common in
Roman times. Modern fine jewelry usually includes gold, white
gold, platinum, palladium, titanium or silver. Most American
and European gold jewelry is made of an alloy of gold, the
purity of which is stated in karats, indicated by a number
followed by the letter K. American gold jewelry must be of at
least 10K purity (41.7% pure gold), (though in England the
number is 9K (37.5% pure gold) and is typically found up to
18K (75% pure gold). Higher purity levels are less common with
alloys at 22 K (91.6% pure gold), and 24 K (99.9% pure gold)
being considered too soft for jewelry use in America and
Europe. These high purity alloys, however, are widely used
across Asia, the Middle East, and Africa. Platinum alloys
range from 900 (90% pure) to 950 (95.0% pure). The silver used
in jewelry is usually sterling silver, or 92.5% fine silver.
In costume jewelry, stainless steel findings are sometimes
used.
Other commonly used materials include glass, such as
fused-glass or enamel; wood, often carved or turned; shells
and other natural animal substances such as bone and ivory;
natural clay; polymer clay; and even plastics. Hemp and other
twines have been used as well to create jewelry that has more
of a natural feel. However, any inclusion of lead or lead
solder will cause an English Assay office (the building which
gives English jewelry its stamp of approval, the Hallmark) to
destroy the piece.
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